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Motorcycle Ergonomics

Fit

Tall riders: why your knees ache on most bikes, and what fixes it

Long legs fold up tight on most bikes. Why the knee angle closes, which changes open it back up, and which kinds of motorcycle suit tall riders.

· 4 min read

If you’re tall, you know the feeling. Twenty minutes into a ride your knees start to ache, then your hips, and by the end of the day getting off the bike involves a small groan. Short riders complain about reaching the ground. You complain about everything else.

The cause is usually simple geometry, and that means it can usually be improved.

Why your knees close up

Every bike has a fixed distance between the seat and the footpegs. Your thighs and shins have to fit in that space. The longer they are, the more they have to fold to get there, so your knee angle gets tighter.

A 6′4″ (193 cm) rider on a mid-size naked bike is packing much longer legs into the same seat-to-peg gap as a 5′6″ (168 cm) rider. The bike hasn’t changed; the folding has. That tighter bend is what your knees complain about, and keeping them bent for hours is what makes them ache.

It also pushes your knees higher, sometimes above the tank cutouts, which means you can’t grip the tank properly. And your hips fold up as well, which loads your lower back.

The rider triangle guide goes into how seat, bars and pegs set each angle. The short version for tall riders: you mostly need more distance between seat and pegs.

What actually opens the knee

A taller seat

Raising the seat moves your hips up and away from the pegs, which opens the knee. Many bikes have a factory high seat, and some have adjustable seat heights. Tall riders rarely struggle to reach the ground, so the usual downside of a taller seat doesn’t apply.

The side effect is that your upper body rises too, which can put your helmet into the rough air off the screen. If a new seat suddenly makes the bike noisy, that’s probably why.

Lower pegs

Peg lowering brackets typically drop the pegs 20–40 mm (0.8–1.6 in). That opens the knee directly and is often the single most effective fix.

The trade-off is cornering clearance. Lower pegs touch down sooner when you lean the bike over. On a touring or adventure bike ridden at a steady pace, that rarely matters. On a sport bike ridden hard, it does. Don’t drop them further than you need.

Adjustable rearsets

On sport bikes, adjustable rearsets give you a few positions to choose from. The lowest setting may be enough to take the edge off, without the clearance loss of fully lowered pegs.

Bar changes for the rest of you

Tall riders often have long arms and long backs too, so a sport or naked bike can have you folded forward at the waist with your elbows jammed. Handlebar risers of 20–50 mm (0.8–2 in) lift the grips, open your hips and take weight off your wrists. Rotate the bars afterwards so your forearm and hand line up, and check that the cables and brake lines still reach at full lock.

The fix-your-fit guide has a table of these changes and their side effects.

Which kinds of bike tend to suit tall riders

Some categories start you off in a better place. These are broad patterns, so check individual bikes with your own measurements rather than going by category alone.

Adventure bikes are the obvious choice. Tall seats, upright bars, and pegs set fairly low for standing. Most tall riders find them roomy straight away.

Touring bikes usually have generous legroom, upright positions and big screens. Check the screen height, though, because a screen designed for an average rider can send the air stream straight into a tall rider’s helmet.

Dual-sports and supermotos have tall seats and lots of room between seat and pegs. They’re lighter and less comfortable over distance, but your knees will be fine.

Cruisers with forward controls open the knee in a different way, by putting your feet out in front. Some tall riders love it. Others find the reach to the pegs fine but the weight on their tailbone hard work on long rides.

Sport bikes are the hardest. High, rear-set pegs and low clip-ons combine a tight knee with a folded hip. Some tall riders make them work with rearsets and a taller seat, but expect to compromise.

Standard and naked bikes vary a lot. Some are roomy; some are built around smaller riders. This is where checking individual models pays off most.

Habits that help on the road

Move around. Shift back in the seat, stretch a leg out at a stop, stand on the pegs for a few seconds on a straight bit of road. Changing position lets blood get back into your legs and takes the load off one set of joints for a while.

Stop more often on long days. It’s not glamorous advice, but knees that are bent tightly for three hours straight will hurt more than knees bent for three one-hour stretches.

If you get persistent pain, a physio or doctor is the right person to ask. Fit changes help, but they aren’t a cure for an existing injury.

Check before you buy

The best fix is the one you never need. Put your height and inseam into Find my bike and it ranks every bike in the database by fit for your body, which quickly shows you which ones have the legroom. Then use the calculator’s modifications panel to see what a taller seat or lower pegs would do on the ones you like, before you spend anything.

Know before you visit the dealer.

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